A letter from Cuba

While in Cuba earlier in the year my Dad met up with a guy and they shared a common interest - bikes ! My Dad gave him some spares parts for his Raleigh bike as Dad was nearing the end of his trip and no longer needed the spares. I wrote in Dad's blog about the meeting - Day 20 .

My Dad received this lovely letter last week (took nearly six months to get here !) and I thought I'd share it with you. If you click on the letter it will open it in a new window.

I'll write back and hopefully it will not take six months to get there.

Some photos

Well Dad took with him a disposable camera ... I wish he'd move into the digital age - as disposable cameras don't give the best results !  Anyway here are a few photos from his trip

Some of the old cars in Havana and a yellow taxi

Old Station in Havana

Dad's taxi ! The Casa he was staying is just behind

Carribean sea - just outside Santiago de Cuba

Casa in La Boca

Evening meal at the Casa in La Boca. Fish, veg, salad and fruit.

Bay of Pigs

Casa at Cienfuegos - roof top view

Guama - reconstruction of a Taino village

Local transport !

Giant Crab ... Dad said there were lots on the road - not sure they would be quite that size !



Here's one I caught earlier. Guess what's on the menu for tea ! This was a Dad's Casa.



The north coast of Cuba - Playa Jibacoa

View from Casa at Vinales of the Mogotes

Vinales - Mogotes

Playa Baracoa

Motorbike and sidecar

Tall ship Havana

Dad told me he'd done this trip on his own ... but look what I found in his photos ! Looks like he had quite an entourage. They were a group of Italian cyclists.





Day 28 - he's on his way home

Well I got a text in the night to say "flight delayed five hours" so I've been keeping an eye on departures from Cuba and his flight has now left Cuba destined for Gatwick Airport.  On the last check he was roughly half way - some where over the ocean. Still another 4 hours 45 minutes to go. He should get into Gatwick around 8.00 ish this evening.

Unfortunately I'm out this evening but will update later.

Day 26 - Havana

Well Dad is back in Havana today. He had an easy day and was back by 11.30 this morning and the weather is cloudy ! I assume he's staying at Casa Galeano because his plan was to leave his bike box there.

He text to say he was in Baracoa last night which is about 8km inland. Wasn't a paritcularly good night ... in Dad's words it was a bit like Blackpool ! The Casa was very busy and there were alot of people around the pool which was very noisy.

Today it's rained for the first time since Dad arrived in Cuba - told Dad it hasn't rained here for weeks! He's had his first mishap - the frame for his bar bag has broke. It's a good job he's heading home tomorrow !

Day 22 Soroa

Dad text earlier. He's had a hard day on the bike today ... well it make up for the easy day yesterday. He's cycled 100 km (around 62 miles) but it has been with a headwind.  He said he could have had a lift on a ox cart but decided to tuck behind a tractor with a trailer load of people for about half an hour.

He's back in Soroa which he cycled through on Monday. He's sorted himself a Casa for the night. It's one he'd spotted when he was cycling through. He was just off to have a shower.

Dad met an English lad a couple of days ago. He was out in Vinales for the rock climbing. Must have been good to have someone have a decent chat to.

Dad will be heading back towards Havana tomorrow.

Day 20 - Vinales

Dad has had a great ride ... in what the Lonley Planet says is the most interesting ride in Cuba!  What it doesn't say is that it's also the most pot-hold ride in Cuba - funny how guidebooks miss that out. It is a route that the Vuelta a Cuba races on. Wonder what Dad's average speed for the ride was ... a lot slower than the pros but then again they are not carrying a month's worth of clobber with them.

Dad's route took him through La Guira - which was originally a colonial estate known as Hacienda Cortina, La Palma and into San Vinente.  Dad has riden past many Mogotes. I spent a good 10 minutes wondering what that could be in text speak! Well it's actually a real word and it's a limestone hill formed during the Jurassic period.

The VinalesValley is a national park area and lots of tourist visit. However Dad did say he'd not seen many tour buses today.  Dad has managed to find himself a Casa for the night. There seems to be quite a few in the Rough Guide so he would have had not trouble finding one.

He also said that when he was in the spa town of San Diego he meet an English teacher who took him on a tour of the spa. The teacher was also a biker so Dad left him some spare parts he'd taken with him. Hopefully not all of them especially as he's been riding on pot-holed roads !

Day 18 Las Terrazas

Got a text off Dad earlier. He is about 5 km short of Las Terrazas which is a small community and nature reserve in the Sierra del Rosario mountain range. On reading up on Las Terrazas it is a ecotourism site and one of the most important in the country.

He's had a great day on the bike, probably one of the best of the trip so far. He'd been following the coast road at the start of the day to La Boca. He then headed inland to Mariel which is about 40 km from Havana. It was then onto Cabanas (I've just spent the last half hour looking for a place called Cabaoas which is what Dad text !) . Lots of lakes and mountains ... and to quote Dad "it's like cycling in the 50's no cars and small roads".  The 50's are way before my time !!!  He's probably clocked up around 75/80kms today. 

He's sorted himself a Casa for the night. No Easter eggs on the menu ... he said they would probably melt in the heat !

Handsomest Man in Cuba - Lynette Chiang

I've just finished reading Lynette's book ... I know I've taken my time reading it but with blogging and everything else I just don't get time at the moment to read!  I found it really useful as it gave me an insight into Cuba that the normal tourist books don't. I could imagine the places Dad was cycling through and the people he would be meeting.

Anyway I've left the following review on both Amazon and Goodreads as I'd definitely recommend the book to anyone who can get their hands on it. Just a pity we didn't find it before Dad set off. Anyway he can read it on his return and who knows Dad may publish a sequel to the book.

****
Forget about the Guidebooks to Cuba ... Lynette has written about the everyday life of ordinary Cuban people. She takes you with her on a journey around Cuba. She shuns the tourist routes and expensive hotels and instead she lives on a small budget staying with the people she meets on her travels. The book is about their life, their culture, and how they survive on a modest income.


The book is very readable and offers not only an insight into Cuban life but also into Lynette's life as well.

I only wished we'd found this book before my Dad headed off on his bike to Cuba earlier this month ... however thanks to the wonder of the Internet and text messages I have managed to get him to track down at least one of the families Lynette talks about in the book and they offered my Dad the same hospitality as they did Lynette.

I would definitely recommend this book to people who want to experience the "real" Cuba.

Day 15 - Varadera

Dad is now on the west coast of Cuba in a place called Varadera. He's had a hard day on the bike with head and cross winds and long straight roads ! His text says "started on 4 lane Cuban motorway" ... I hope he his kidding but knowing Dad's track record of cycling on various motorways he's probably not !

Today's route has taken him through Jovellanos, Carlos Rojas, Jose Smith Comas (unusual sounding place) and then on through Cardenas and eventually arriving in Varadera.  The place he is staying is 80% tourist - Dad will not be liking that! Reading the blurb about it, it is one of the largest resorts in the Caribbean. The resort is on the Hicacos Peninsula which is only 1.2 km wide ... so there is no getting away from the tourist! However Dad will probably be able to stock up on any necessities whilst he's in a "touristy" place.

Tomorrow Dad will head back towards Havana as he's asked me to book accommodation for Saturday night at Casa Galeano which is where he stayed when he first arrived in Havana.

Day 12 - Cienfuegos

Got a text from Dad earlier to say he was now in Cienfuegos. He got there about 1 o'clock so he must have had an early start from Trinidad this morning. He's had a good ride.  Last night Dad went "self-catering" as he had a house to look after for the night ! Who would leave my Dad in charge of a house! He must have eaten out at a restaurant as he text to say fish was on the menu.

Not sure what the Casa is called where Dad is staying tonight (I've texted him to ask) in Cienfuegos but it's on the sea front with good views out over the bay and of the ships in the port. Don't think there will be any swimming today though so instead Dad has been for a walk along the sea front. Tonight on the menu is lobster. He'll be nipping into Asda when he gets home ordering a lobster!

Well the "tip" to take £5.00 notes wasn't much use and Dad has now changed them into Cuban pesos.

Tomorrow Dad is heading for Playa Girón and the site of the Bay of Pigs invasion which happened 50 years ago to the day - well the 17th -19th April 1961 !

Day 11 - Trinidad

Dad text me earlier to say he'd had a great evening meal last night in the Sol y Mar Hostel - king prawns. I hope they didn't arrive at the table with their heads still on ! Reading the reviews for the hostel it does say the "host is probably the best cook in Cuba". There are a couple of lads from Devon staying in the hostel but they are there for the music, beer and late nights. Now the last time Dad went to a music bar on one of these trips he had his wallet stolen (in Ireland) so I'm hoping he steers clear of music bars on this trip!

Dad has had a great day today in Trinidad itself. He's been to Church (well it is Sunday !). Apparently they had some "sort" of Palm Sunday service. He then did a 10 kilometre run/walk. Perhaps it was Trinidad's version of the London Marathon!  Anyway Dad apparently won the over 70's prize !  I'm not sure if that was for racing or for knobbly knees (I'm just seeking clarification on that!). After a busy morning of Church and racing he then went and had a Cuban pizza for lunch. I've read about these in Lynette's book!

Well today has been a great day for Dad's footie team Stoke City. Stoke were playing Bolton at Wembley in the FA cup semi-final, so I gave Dad a goal by text report of the match, plus a HT and FT recap (so that's FIVE texts for the goals and one for HT and one for FT - so at least seven texts) only for him to text me and say "Pam text me the Stoke result - good result!" I did have to go and check my phone just to make sure I'd actually text Dad and not some random from my phone book. Anyway all my text did eventually turn up ! I bet he looked like Mr Popular with all the beeping as the texts arrived!


Dad did say he was off for a swim soon to celebrate the win ... not sure if that's his win for the race/walk or Stoke beating Bolton and getting to the FA cup final. Either way, I hope he has a fab swim.

Day 10 - Trinidad

Dad text me earlier to say that today he had cycled from Sancti Spiritus to Trinidad - that's the one in Cuba and not the one in the West Indies !  He must have set off early as he text me just after 6.00 pm (which would have been 1.00 Cuba time) to say he'd made it to Trinidad. He'd got himself a Casa down by the sea in a place called La Boca. The Casa Dad is staying tonight is Sol y Mar.  Looks a nice place ... and it does laundry so Dad might get some washing done! He did say he was off for a swim later. He's had a great day on the bike today as the route he took was through the mountains on roads with bends !

He's getting used to using Cuban money ... ie shopping like the locals. Today he's had a bap and an drink of organge for 3 pesos (a few pence).

Got a text a bit later to say he'd been for a swim. Weather is still VERY hot, so he's been getting up early and setting off before 7.00 am. The first couple of hours it's ok cycling but after that it's on and off the bike and finding a bit of shade to rest. 

Tomorrow he is off to look around Trinidad.

Day 9 en-route to Sancti Spiritus

Got a text off Dad earlier to say he was on the bus from Las Tunas to Sancti Spiritus (or Holy Spirit). He is hoping to then do some touring around Trinidad.

He never did find the bakery by Arismilda's in Manzanillo. In fact he had trouble finding Arismilda's. In the end he found a school teacher who could speak English and she gave him directions. Oh well at least he found it. Apparently Arismilda has written me a letter .... so I'll wait on writing to her until I've seen her letter.

Just got another text off Dad to say he's sat at a cafe. I'm assuming the bus has stopped for a break. I "think" his text says that the journey is around 400 kilometres (about 250 miles) and it's cost him 17 C or just over £11.00 - which for a Cuban is around four weeks pay! I'm trying to find out how far he is from Sancti Spiritus or if he's arrived ... will update if I hear back from him. 

He is hoping to get a Casa tonight. I've text him details of one I found in Sancti Spritus called Santa Elena only because I liked the sound of it and they offered free Spanish lesson and dance classes !  Would love to see someone trying to teach my Dad how to dance. Knowing Dad he'll probably not be able to find it !

Updated to say that Dad's earlier text was from a Cuban cafe en-route to Sancti Spiritus but he has text again to say that he's now arrived safely and found himself a Casa ... so he'll not be coming home fluent in Spanish and able to salsa !

Dad has tracked down Arismilda

Just had a quick text off Dad to say he's managed to track down Arismilda which must mean he's arrived in Manzanillo.  

Arismilda and family feature in Lynette Chiang's book the Handsomest Man in Cuba. She wrote This is a lovely family, all crammed into a tiny living space. Arismilda listens to the radio and writes down the addresses of people who contact the station asking for a penfriend in Cuba. She has written to several but never got a reply. The family are clearly very poor, yet Juan secured me a dozen bread rolls from the bakery and refused payment, saying "All I ask is that you write to my wife." I wrote to them, but I am unsure if it arrived. Please pop by and say hello. And promise to write to her. http://www.galfromdownunder.com/cuba/cubalolita.html

Hopefully Dad will get a photo and I promise to write to them !

Dad will update me later.

Day 5 and Day 6 - the mountains

I didn't hear from Dad last night. Just got a text through to say "ngsl mon" which in Dad's text speak means no signal Monday night ! 

So Monday he spent cycling in the Sierra Maestro which is Cuba's highest and most extensive mountain range which stretches along the coast line. He managed to find himself a cabin for 5C (£3.32) in a place called La Mula. By the sounds of it, it was a local place for local people! From reading up I think he was staying at Base de Campismo in a cabana ... and the blurb says the cabins are in a small wood, with a banana plantation and on a lagoon next to an empty beach (this is sounding a bit like heaven !). 

Today he's continued along the coast and is now in the rural town of Pilon (not that rural as it has a mobile phone signal!). He's found himself a Casa for the night. I have no idea where it is, or if it's actually a legal Casa as reading up on Pilon it doesn't sound like it's very big on tourism. However, I'm sure Dad will manage - he usually does.

So the above comes courtesy of Dad's four line text ... sorry it's not a bit more in depth but it probably took Dad about 15 minutes to type the four lines !

When I Googled Pilon it came up with Lynette Chiang's blog. Apparently the Handsomest Man in Cuba was actually found in the back streets of Pilon. Well all I can say is the Handsomest Man in Cuba has competition now that my Dad is in town :)

Updated: Just received another text to say ... couldn't send a long text earlier the lady in the Casa was in the way !  Dad has had his first swim in the Caribbean at La Mula. I bet he didn't pack his trunks - so heaven knows what he swam in.  It's been very warm on the coast road the last couple of days so he's knocked of cycling after lunch. He's cycled through two tunnels. The road is very busy with lots of crabs, goats, turkey, horses, pigs and the occasional Cuban bus. No cars though! Oh how I wished my journey home from work tonight had been on roads free from cars!

Day 4 - Chivirico

Just got a text from Dad. He's had a great day on the bike. Cycled 70 kms (just over 43 miles). The roads are tarmac with pot-holes - so it's a bit like riding at home and also dirt tracks. He's cycled along the coast from Santiago de Cuba and looking at the map probably passed through Rancho Cruz, Goacainabon, Playa de Caleton Blanco, Playa Aserradero, Playa El Frances before arriving in Chivirico.

He's staying in luxury tonight at the four star Brisas hotel - 48 CUC (£32) for bed, dinner and breakfast and air-conditioning!  He was just off to shower as he needs to "dress" for dinner ... hope it's nothing formal as he's not got much in those panniers. At least it being the start of the holiday he should still have some clean/cleanish stuff to wear ! 

Today he's met a Swiss couple and a Dutch couple.

Unfortunately he was too late to visit Cayo Granma as by the time my text arrived he'd already left Santiago. However I've pointed him (courtesy of Lynette Chiang's blog ) in the direction of

Arismilda Reyes Cintra, Marti #41 entre Tomas Barrero y San Silvestre, Manzanillo, Granma, Cuba 87510. I was invited into this house by Arismilda's husband Juan Francisco Arias Martinez as I waited across the road for the bakery to open. This is a lovely family, all crammed into a tiny living space. Arismilda listens to the radio and writes down the addresses of people who contact the station asking for a penfriend in Cuba. She has written to several but never got a reply. The family are clearly very poor, yet Juan secured me a dozen bread rolls from the bakery and refused payment, saying "All I ask is that you write to my wife." I wrote to them, but I am unsure if it arrived. Please pop by and say hello. And promise to write to her. http://www.galfromdownunder.com/cuba/cubalolita.html

I've told him to get a photo if he manages to track them down !

Tomorrow looking at the map he'll be cycling through Parque Nacional de Turquino .

I'll update when I hear from him again.

Day 3 - Santiago de Cuba

Had a couple of texts off Dad today. He was on the bus heading down to Santiago de Cuba. He was complaining yesterday how hot Havana was ... well he was freezing on the bus as they had the air-con on. There is just no pleasing some folk !  Hope he managed to get some sleep.

He did say that for tea last night he'd had soup (I bet it wasn't a cup-a-soup) and a chicken salad. The two nights in the Casa Galeano and two evening meals had cost 85 (Cuban Convertible Pesos - or CUC) which is approx £56.00.

His second text was to say he'd reached Santiago de Cuba. A bit of damage to the bike (a broken mud guard). Dad is staying in Calle Aguilera No 772 Casa and it's costing 18 CUC approx £12.00. I wonder if they will feed him for that !  Just googled it and found the following on a forum :

"Good place, average rooms, Melida is a lovely host. It's just a block or 2 past the Plaza de Marte, so is easy to walk to most of the central sites and activities in Santiago.The casa is actually owned by her mother (Magdalena), but Melida lives there and runs it."

I think he'll be fine staying there!

He's had enough of Cities and is heading for the east coast tomorrow.

I'll update as and when I hear from him

Day 1 - Havana

Well just got a text from Dad with an update of his day.  He's had a great day. This morning he had a ride out to Marianao. Following lunch it was then onto Guanabacoa and finally onto Havana Vieja or Old Havana as it's also known.

Weather has been very hot - just had a look and it's around 32 or 33 degrees ! That's warm.  Tonight he's been back to the Casa and had lobster for tea ... now that's a bit more upmarket than his usual "camping" tea ! I bet he's having a craving for a cup-a-soup :)

Apparently it was the bike box that was damaged and not the bike. That's a relief.

Dad has booked the overnight bus to Santiago de Cuba for tomorrow night. Departs Havana at 10.00 pm and arrives in Santiago de Cuba at 12.00 am. So tomorrow he will have another day in and around Havana.